Tag Archives: Italy

Food and Drink in Italy

Basically every meal we had in Italy was fantastic.  Tripadvisor and other review sites really make it quite simple to find quality.  Given that, there were of course some standouts.  Here are the top dining experiences we had across Rome, Naples, Florence, Venice and the Cinque Terre.  Admittedly not my best photography, but it is hard to care about taking photos when presented with food like this.

1.  Osteria Vini e Vecchi Sapori – Florence

No Pizza, no Bistecca, no ice.  This sign is posted right out front, this is not a pizza joint, not a Florentine steak house, and they do not have soft drinks.  There are about five tables and the place is run by a small family.  Reservations are required or you basically have no hope.  The location is also very convenient as it is right next to the Medici palace.  Simple, very reasonably priced and fantastic.

Vini e Vecchi Sapori, Osso Bucco

Osso Bucco

Vini e Vecchi Sapori, Zucchine Blossom Pasta

Zucchine Blossom Pasta

Vini e Vecchi Sapori, Cinghiale (Wild Boar) Pappardelle

Cinghiale (Wild Boar) Pappardelle

2.  Antica Ristorro di Cambi – Florence

Bistecca Florentine.  This steak alone pushed me from normally ordering steaks prepared Medium to now exclusively ordering Medium Rare.  This was conveniently located for us, there may be better Bistecca to be found, but cheap wine and a delicious steak is still a great experience.  House wine comes by the jug.

Antica Ristorro di Cambi, Steak, Bistecca Florentine

Bistecca Florentine

3. Pizzeria da Michele – Naples

Made famous in the novel and movie Eat, Pray, Love (at least according to my wife) this place is on the map.  Deservedly so.  Gigantic pizza but so good you can easily eat a whole one yourself.  Sauce, Mozzarella and a little basil is all any real pizza needs.

Pizzeria da Michele

Real Pizza

4. Il Gabriello – Rome

Pasta cooked to perfection.  More al dente than I’d ever had before.  I don’t think I’ve had pasta prepared this well since.

Il Gabriello, Spaghetti Pomodoro

Spaghetti Pomodoro

Il Gabriello, Cozze (Mussels)

Cozze (Mussels)

5. Ristorante Da Gigino – Sorrento

Wasn’t sure what to expect here, suspected it might be a bit of a tourist trap however the quality of the food was excellent.  Stopped here for lunch while strolling the streets of Sorrento.  The pasta was prepared perfectly and the seafood was fresh.  More simply prepared dishes executed perfectly.


Caprese Salad


Gamberi (prawns) e Vongole (clams)


Cozze (Mussels) e Vongole (Clams)

6. Vulnetia – Vernazza

The Cinque Terre region is famous for Pesto and seafood, specifically anchovies.  While the two dishes pictured below can be found just about at any restaurant in the area, Vulnetia does them well.


Gnocchi with Pesto


Acciughe (anchovy) and Patata

Next post:  Madrid


Vernazza and the Cinque Terre

The Cinque Terre was the final stop on our tour of Italy in 2011.  We had figured the urban experiences of Rome, Naples, Venice, and Florence would be best followed by a more serene locale.  We could not have been better rewarded.

The Cinque Terre region is made up of five towns; Monterosso, Vernazza, Riomaggiore, Manarola and Corniglia.  Each town has its differences but they share colorful building facades and beautiful views of the Ligurian Sea.    Monterosso is the largest and feels like a resort, having a relatively large beach and a multitude of shops and restaurants.  Corniglia is the smallest and is less accessible than the other towns.  It has a sleepy feel and is less popular with tourists.  It is also the only town of the five that isn’t directly on the water.  Riomaggiore and Manarola are similar with a main street leading down to a small harbor inlet.  We chose to stay in Vernazza after reading Rick Steve’s recommendations and booked a room at Camere Giuliano.  Vernazza is laid out similarly but is smaller, or at least it felt smaller and more welcoming.

Pages have been written on Camere Giuliano and the man (Giuliano Basso) who built, owns and runs the rooms in Vernazza that we booked.  Check out the link and read some of the Tripadvisor reviews.  I don’t recall having met another stranger who immediately commanded my respect in the way the Giuliano Basso did.  My wife and I spent several hours chatting with him on the patio during our stay and our time could not have been better spent.  Book well in advance.

Vernazza has approximately 500 permanent residents.  Giuliano noted that additional development is prohibited by the government to preserve the town.  The main street runs from the train station down to the beach which is flanked by the old castle and the church.  The tower of the castle offers a nice view of the sea and town harbor however the town is best viewed from the end of the dock or the hiking trail to Monterosso.  Small shops and restaurants line the street.  The beach is small and was frequented by the local children.  Not the type of beach to lay out in the sun for an entire day on.

Hiking trails connect all five towns of the Cinque Terre.  The trails leading out of Vernazza (Monterosso to the west and Corniglia to the east) are probably the two longest and most difficult, though neither are particularly excruciating.  Take enough water, there are no spots to refill.  The trails between all five towns run along the sea and offer spectacular views of its deep blue/green waters.  The towns are also connected by train which is convenient if you don’t want to hike to and from on the same trail.  We made it to all five towns on two separate days of hiking and still had plenty of time to relax and dine on the local specialties (Pesto, Focaccia, Anchovies… more in the next post).  Check on the status of the trails before departing, Corniglia to Manarola was closed during our visit.  Hiking the trails during mid day while tourists pack the towns seemed to be the perfect way to experience this area.    The first two shots below show Vernazza at different times of day, note the crowds in the shot taken in mid-afternoon.  The mornings and evenings were peaceful with far fewer people roaming about the town.

Shortly after we had left, in the fall of 2011, extremely heavy rains caused severe flooding and landslides, causing significant damage to Vernazza and Monterosso.  The Save Vernazza website has a wealth of information on the destruction and also the efforts that have taken place or are underway to restore or even improve upon this beautiful town.  Rick Steve’s also has some good information on the recovery.  It appears that the trails and businesses are back open and the towns have recovered well.

Perfect end to our trip.

Next post:  Tour of Italy Cuisine Recap


Morning in Vernazza from the Trail to Monterosso
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@14mm, f/5.6, 1/320, ISO:200

Vernazza, Cinque Terre

Afternoon, Vernazza from the Trail to Monterosso
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/5.6, 1/800, ISO:200

Corniglia, Cinque Terre

Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/4.0, 1/800, ISO:200

Trail to Monterosso above the Ligurian Sea

Trail to Monterosso above the Ligurian Sea
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@24mm, f/5.6, 1/1000, ISO:200

Monterosso al Mare

Monterosso al Mare
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@42mm, f/5.6, 1/800, ISO:200

The Ligurian Sea

Hiking to Manarola
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@20mm, f/5.0, 1/800, ISO:200

Camere Giuliano

View from Camere Giuliano
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@20mm, f/9.0, 1/320, ISO:200

The Villa dell'Amore

The Villa dell’Amore
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@18mm, f/5.0, 1/800, ISO:200

Naples and Sorrento, Italy

Naples isn’t quite like the other tourist spots of Italy.  Naples is gritty.  You won’t see the hundreds of security officers wandering around with nothing to do like you might in Rome (we saw only one, donning a bulletproof vest).  Unemployment in Naples is extremely high, and it shows.  They also say that the mafia controls the trash collection (or lack there of) and it shows.  What shows the most is that Neapolitan youth love spray paint.  Graffiti is visible on basically everything.  I never really felt unsafe here though.  I’d venture to guess that the odds of being pick-pocketed in Naples are about the same as any other city in Italy.  Fewer tourists and empty piazzas were actually refreshing.  The huge Piazza del Plebiscito was practically empty as we strolled through.  We also found excellent lodging in Naples at L’alloggio dei Vassalli.

While Naples wasn’t my favorite destination in Italy, it isn’t as dire as I may have made it seem.  One, including myself, could make a convincing argument that the pizza alone will make the trip a worthwhile one.  We stopped at Pizzeria da Michele twice, which is famed in its own right but also from the book “Eat, Pray, Love.”  A picture of Julia Roberts is proudly displayed within.  Da Attilio also provided a solid pie.  In general, the coffee and pastries were also top notch.  The Museo Archeologico contains some amazing works excavated from the ruins of Pompeii (though the museum itself is drab).

Naples makes a great home base for some other destinations as well.  The beautiful town of Sorrento is just a short train ride away to the south.  Pompeii and Vesuvius are also just a short train ride to the north.  Unfortunately we just didn’t have enough time to get to Pompeii and Vesuvius but we did make it to Sorrento for a day.

There is a stark contrast between Naples and Sorrento which is quite clean and quaint.  The town is famous for its softball sized lemons.  The trinkets in the shops are lemon themed, the candy is lemon flavored, and of course there is limoncello for purchase.  Most shops even let you taste before you buy.  One end of town has a lemon grove that you can stroll through, though the mosquitoes were a nuisance.  Great for a day trip but wasn’t a place I’d stay for more than that, unless I were exploring other towns down the Amalfi coast.

Naples itself may not be for everyone but it’s worth a visit.  To non-foodies it may sound odd, but I don’t think I’ll ever forget the taste of the pizza in Naples.  I suppose those types of lasting memories are what travel is all about.  You might even fall in love with the more authentic feel of this city versus the long lines and tour buses of other Italian cities.  Anyway, if you can’t stand the place head to Sorrento and Pompeii.  There’s nothing to lose.

Next post: The Cinque Terre

Vesuvius in the Distance

Vesuvius in the Distance
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@7mm, f/4.0, 1/2000s, ISO:500

Umberto Galleria

Umberto Galleria
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@7mm, f/4.0, 1/80s, ISO:500

Lemons of Sorrento

Lemons of Sorrento
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@12mm, f/5.0, Multi, ISO:320

Back Alleys

Back Alleys
Olympus EPL-1, 20mm lens, f/3.5, 1/100s, ISO:200

Missing the Garbage Man

Missing the Garbage Man
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@14mm, f/4.0, 1/500s, ISO:200

Margherita Pizza at Da Michele

Margherita Pizza at Da Michele
Olympus EPL-1, 20mm lens, f/2.2, 1/80s, ISO:200

Sorrento Harbor

Sorrento Harbor
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@7mm, f/5.0, 1/1250s, ISO:200

Neapolitan Graffiti

Neapolitan Graffiti
Olympus EPL-1, 20mm lens@20mm, f/7.1, 1/2000, ISO:640

Venice, Italy

Venice is surreal.  The notion of purely water based transportation in itself is an oddity.  Like the other big cities in Italy, it has tourist meccas, the Rialto Bridge and Piazza San Marco specifically.  The areas near these two spots seemed even more packed with tourists and low quality/over priced food than Rome.  Learned the hard way that an espresso in Piazza San Marco costs about $14 USD.  Conversely, strolling the streets and canal bridges in the evening is an experience that can’t be replicated.  Just watch out for the dog poop.  No matter where you are some amount of the people will not pick up their dog’s doo doo.  This fact is amplified when streets are narrow and there’s no grass or trees.   Also of great importance, the canals did not stink.  I can’t speak for whether they ever do stink or how badly they smell if and when they do, but I don’t recall a single foul odor.  My wife and I visited in late May.  Maybe it was luck or maybe people tend to exaggerate.  In fact, the lack of exhaust from cars and scooters was quite pleasant.

I was dragging through Venice, half out of it from an illness I’d been fighting off the whole trip.  Luckily our bed & breakfast had the most comfortable bed I’ve slept in (Italy or otherwise).  Actually, B&B Sandra was perhaps the best B&B I’ve ever stayed in.  The owners, Sandra & Leonardo, make you feel at home and prepare an extensive breakfast daily.  The B&B is within reasonable walking distance of almost anywhere, but of course you can take the water buses instead.  No gondola or water taxi rides for us, not sure it would be worth the euros when a good seat on the water bus gets you all of the same sights.

The food was much better in Florence and Tuscany in my opinion, but I’d imagine we just didn’t seek out the right places.  One tip is that the food seemed to improve proportionally to the distance from the Rialto and San Marco.  Lunch at Osteria L’Orto dei Mori was memorable.  The cicchetti (similar to Spanish tapas) bar tour is also an excellent way to go for a dinner.  Hopping from bar to bar sampling the specialty of each with a glass of wine made for a great evening.  Perhaps one of the best things we ate in Venice were strawberries from the local street vendors.  Maybe Venice has the best strawberries in the world in May, maybe I normally eat crappy strawberries.  I don’t know but they were the best I’ve ever eaten.

The short trip across the lagoon to the island of Murano is worth it for a few hours to see the famed Venetian glass work.  Unfortunately I don’t have any photos to post as most of the shops prohibit taking pictures of their work.  The glass is gorgeous but also on the pricey end.  Expect at least 150 euros for a decanter or vase with real quality to it.  Some of the shops conduct live glass blowing demonstrations.  Watched a guy make a very detailed horse out of glass in about two minutes.  Impressive.

The first shot below is an HDR that is admittedly a little unrealistic looking, however I thought that it fit with the surreal feeling of Venice in general.  I tended to rely on the 14-42mm Olympus kit lens as the close quarters and tight streets are more conducive to a mid range lens.  Though it’s crowded, watching the gondolas go by below the Rialto in the evening is a do before you die type of experience.

Next post: Naples

Dreams of Venice

Dreams of Venice
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/3.5, Multi, ISO:200

Venetian Windows

Venetian Driveway
Olympus EPL-1, 20mm lens, f/4.0, 1/400s, ISO:200

Water Taxi

Water Taxi
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@42mm, f/5.6, 1/1600s, ISO:200

Gondola for Hire

Gondola for Hire
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@18mm, f/3.9, 1/10s, ISO:200

The Campanile

The Campanile
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@18mm, f/395, 1/1000s, ISO:200

Venetian Streets

Venetian Streets
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/4.5, 1/1600s, ISO:200

Parking Spots

Parking Spots
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@13mm, f/5.6, 1/640s, ISO:200

Wine Tour of Tuscany’s Chianti Region

I’ve been blogging about cities and taking lots of shots of landscapes and architecture in Italy, but really my wife and I traveled here for food and wine.  We had our most enjoyable or second most enjoyable day in Italy (Hard to judge, the Cinque Terre was also amazing) after one full day centered on drinking and eating.  When you tour fantastic wineries and end up eating lunch at a world famous butcher shop, I guess that’s what you’d expect.  A perfect dinner awaited back in Florence as noted in my last post.

My wife and I booked a tour with Tuscan Wine Tours, hoping to try some full bodied dry red wines and wanting to see the famed Tuscan countryside.  We booked well in advance as this outfit is well reviewed in Tripadvisor and spots/available dates were filling up.  We were not disappointed.  If you have a day in Florence and like wine and meat, this tour is what you should do.  You can see the architecture of Florence in pictures on the internet but you can’t taste the wine.

After a 20-30 minute drive we arrived at the first winery.  The scenery was nice and your tour guide will prep you on Italian wine types and classifications.  Our guide spoke perfect English as did the hosts at the wineries.  Tuscan wines are centered around Chianti Classico but offer quite a few other varieties of primarily red full bodied wines.  The wineries also made their own olive oil which could change your whole mentality on the stuff if you’ve never had great olio.  We haven’t bought the supermarket brand ever since.  If you do some research though there are some affordable brands to be purchased just about anywhere.

Lunch was at a butcher shop in the small town of Panzano.  The shop is easy to spot due to the unconventional horizontal red and white stripes and painted blue and flowered cow out front.  Meat was on the menu and it was fantastic.  We were surprised long after we returned home to see a place that looked familiar to us on Anthony Bourdain’s “No Reservations” during an episode he shot in Tuscany.  After comparing some pictures to the video we realized the amazing lunch we had on this tour was at the shop of famed butcher Dario Cecchini.

After lunch, another winery with excellent Chianti and olive oil.  We stopped in the town of Greve for gelato on the trip back to Florence where we were dropped off at the scenic Piazzale Michelangelo.  From here you can get a view of the entire city skyline.  The stress of sightseeing in the crowded cities can be well relieved by a tour into the country side, especially with some wine involved. – Mike Valore

Road to Villa CafaggioOlympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@7mm, f/5.6, 1/1250s, ISO:200

Road to Villa Cafaggio
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@7mm, f/5.6, 1/1250s, ISO:200

Chianti Classico

Chianti Classico
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/4.0, 1/100s, ISO:320

Lunch at Antica Macelleria Cecchini

Lunch at Antica Macelleria Cecchini
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/3.5, 1/140s, ISO:320

Lots of Wine

Lots of Wine
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/4.5, 1/80s, ISO:320

Home-made Olive Oil and PastaOlympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@7mm, f/5.6, 1/1250s, ISO:200

Home-made Olive Oil and Pasta
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/3.5, 1/150s, ISO:320

Greve Town SquareOlympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@7mm, f/5.6, 1/1250s, ISO:200

Greve Town Square
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/5.6, 1/1250s, ISO:320

Next post: Venice

Florence, Italy

Destination 6:  Florence

Almost every major Italian artist and architect is represented here.  You could write the entire history of the Renaissance by spending a few weeks wandering around here.  The Accademia houses Michelangelo’s David (You can see the fake one placed at the original location outside the Medici palace in the last photo in this post).  The Uffizi houses paintings from all of the masters.  Brunelleschi’s basilica dome or Duomo, is perhaps the most famous dome in the world.  Hell, you can even see Galileo’s finger in a jar here.  Leather, jewelry, and fashion in general are big but the prices are high.  Check out the prices for gold jewelry in the shops on the Ponte Vecchio.  I couldn’t afford anything even if the prices were Yen instead of Euros.  In my opinion, you’re better off spending your hard earned money on wine and food.

Florence had our most memorable dining experiences in Italy.   Vini e Vecchi Sapori was one of the best dining experiences I’ve ever had, and likely ever will have.  Florence is situated on the edge of the Chianti wine region in Italy.  Not the cheap Chianti you can buy for a few bucks at the local liquor store.  This wine is a deep red, dry and the flavors are powerful.  Goes perfect with the local specialties such as Bistecca alla Florentina.  Bistecca is aged steak cut thick and served rare, putting most any other steak to shame.  Fantastic gelato is a given.  Discussion on Italian food and photos are for a later post, but the quality here cannot be ignored.

While these works of art/architecture and the amazing food culture draws tourists, I found it to be less crowded than Rome.  The streets in the main historical areas seemed less overrun by speeding Vespa’s and what are comically tiny cars (at least by American standards).  The pace was more of what I had imagined Italy to be.  Then again maybe we were just starting to learn how to enjoy this wonderful country.

Sun Shines on the Ponte Vecchio

Sun Shines on the Ponte Vecchio
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/5.6, Multi, ISO:320

Bridges Over the Arno River

Bridges Over the Arno River
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/3.5, 0.8s, ISO:200

Basilica Santa Maria del Fiore (The Duomo)

Basilica Santa Maria del Fiore (The Duomo)
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@7mm, f/5.6, 1/1250s, ISO:320

Atop the Duomo

Atop the Duomo
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@7mm, f/7.1, 1/900s, ISO:200

Perseo and Medusa

Perseo and Medusa
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@31mm, f/4.9, 1/250s, ISO:200

Next post: Chianti Region Wine Tour

Rome, Italy

Destination 5:  Rome

Rome tends to be the focal point of Italy.  The iconic landmarks are here.  The Colosseum, the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, the Vatican, the Spanish Steps and others.  While Rome offers these magnificent architectural triumphs, it also offers hordes of tourists.  Want your picture taken with a fake gladiator for an absurd price?  This is the place.  See the main sites, but take the time to find a restaurant or a bar off the beaten track.  You will be rewarded.  Take some comfortable shoes too, as my wife and I learned, walking in Rome and most Italian cities for that matter, is a walk on HARD ground.  I swear there wasn’t soft spot to take a step in this entire city.

I found myself shooting wide in Rome.  I stuck to the Panasonic 20mm prime and 7-14mm on my EPL-1.  There’s alot to squeeze into each shot.  The 20mm was nice due to its small size.  I felt bad for some of the poor souls lugging their 30lbs of camera gear through the streets and landmarks.  No thanks.

The good… If you’re short on time, hit the Colosseum and the Pantheon.  Walk by the Trevi Fountain and stroll through some of the nearby churches.  Have a seat on the Spanish Steps and watch the crowds go by.  Eat gelato (Giolitti).  Eat al dente pasta.  Drink the wine and munch on free appetizers at Campo dei Fiori.  Don’t feel like you have to see it all, you can’t and you won’t.

Now for the bad…. This is opinion, but it is a strong one of mine, skip the Vatican museum.  Religious and art preferences aside I hated the Vatican museum.  Granted, the interior of the basilica was gorgeous and the art work phenomenal, but they herd you like cattle.  Ropes and doors are constantly blocking your path.  They literally rearrange the available paths by the minute to herd you through and out the doors.  IF you survive the gauntlet you are rewarded by the amazing “map room”, “Raphael rooms” and finally the Sistine Chapel ceiling itself.  The Sistine Chapel experience was ruined for me by pushing, shoving, and yelling.  They allow far too many visitors inside at once which makes for a horrible environment for taking in one of the greatest works of art of all time.  For art in Rome visit the Borghese Gallery.  The finest sculptures you will ever see without the hassle.  Photography is prohibited, but you will remember what you see.

Visit Rome but see it on your own terms.

The ColosseumOlympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@12mm, f/5.6, 1/40s, ISO:1600

The Colosseum
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@12mm, f/5.6, 1/1600s, ISO:200

Inside the ColosseumOlympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens @7mm, f/4.0, Multi, ISO:200

Inside the Colosseum
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens @7mm, f/4.0, Multi, ISO:200

The PantheonOlympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@12mm, f/4.0, 1/6s, ISO:200

The Pantheon
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@12mm, f/4.0, 1/6s, ISO:200

Light Streams into St. Peter's

Light Streams into St. Peter’s
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@13mm, f/4.5, 1/40s, ISO:200

Trevi Fountain, Rome ItalyOlympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@14mm, f/4.5, 1/1000s, ISO:200

Trevi Fountain
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@14mm, f/4.5, 1/1000s, ISO:200

Santa Maria Sopra MinervaOlympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@7mm, f/4.0, 1/40s, ISO:640

Santa Maria Sopra Minerva
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@7mm, f/4.0, 1/40s, ISO:640

Street Vendor, Spanish StepsOlympus EPL-1, 20mm lens, f/4.5, 1/1250s, ISO:200

Street Vendor, Spanish Steps
Olympus EPL-1, 20mm lens, f/4.5, 1/1250s, ISO:200

Next posts:  Tour of Italy Continues in Florence