San Sebastian, Spain

San Sebastian is located on Spain’s north coast less than 20 miles from the border with France.  The city is also known as Donostia.  There are two names and two languages noted for just about everything as this area is part of the semi-autonomous Basque region.  Basque language uses the letter X frequently.  You’ll notice it for sure.  We stayed at Hotel Leku Eder which had beautiful ocean views and very comfortable rooms.  From here you can catch the bus to just about anywhere in the town.  Overall we spent three days and two nights here.  Probably enough time unless you are planning to hit all of the top restaurants to be found.  Akelare, Martin Berasategui and Mugaritz are also top establishments that we just didn’t have the time or the $ to dine in.

After arriving, we took the bus down to the opposite side of the bay to try Pintxos – small bites. Dinner here if not at a top end restaurant, can easily consist of a few small plates at a bar accompanied by a glass of wine – repeating until full.

After returning from lunch at Asador Etxebarri on day 2 (see previous post), we basically repeated the night of day 1.  There are many pintxo bars to try, each with a different variety of plates and wines.

On our last day, we hiked to the top of Monte Urgull which provides a nice view of the bay from the fortress at the top.  The walk along the coastline at the base of Monte Urgull is also a nice stroll.  After a day on the town we dressed up and made our way to Arzak – another of the top restaurants in the world.

Sunset from Leku Eder

Bay of La Concha from Monte Urgull

Pintxos

Pintxo Bar

Borda Berri – Beef Cheek

San Sebastian Sunset

Bar Haizea, Txakoli Pour

Next post:  Arzak

Lunch at Asador Etxebarri

The capper on the trip to Spain was to head to San Sebastian for some fine dining at two of the best restaurants in the world.  Arzak and Asador Etxebarri.

Asador Etxebarri has made the worlds 50 best restaurants list for seven years in a row and currently sits at number 34.  Chef Victor Arguinzoniz is a grill master who fires every course over wood.  Admittedly, we were drawn here by the Anthony Bourdain episode that featured the restaurant.  Just about every review you can find validates this restaurant as one of the best you’ll ever find.

We arrived nice and early.  Many reviewers noted that the restaurant can be hard to find.  We didn’t have any issues, phone GPS took us straight there.  We wandered around for about 45 minutes, not much to see outside the restaurant other than a jai-alai court and a small farm.  Not my best photography, eating is of course far more important.

Asador Etxebarri

By the time the doors opened at 1:00 PM a few other groups had wandered into the town.  We were seated upstairs on the balcony.  After we settled in, we waited for quite a while before servers showed any interest in us.  We started to get a little frustrated, it really was far too long before someone waited on us.  Once we ordered our tasting menus and the meal started, all was well.

Lunch Tasting Menu

The first four items came out together.  The juice was good but not so memorable.  The chorizo, butter and anchovies on the other hand, were amazing.  While butter may not seem exciting, the combination of the salt and smoke made for an incredible combination.  The chorizo was easily the best I’ve ever eaten.  The anchovies were laid across a grilled pan con tomate.  Perfect.

Salted Anchovies with Bread and Tomato

Chorizo from Acorn Fed Pork

Following the initial four small courses we got into the main tasting menu.  First out was tomato with white onion.  Visually I was not expecting much.  Looked a little like a boiled skinned tomato cut in half with some onions on it (see picture).  Flavor and textures were a different story.  The tomato was wonderfully tender and the onion added just a little crunch.  I don’t know what was in the broth, but it would’ve been an excellent dish on its own served in a glass.

Tomato and White Onion

Next were mussels in escabeche.  Flavors were good on this one but not too memorable.  Probably one of my least favorites, but a fine dish.

Mussels in Escabeche

Continuing with seafood to start, out came a grilled oyster with seaweed.  Also present was a little foam.  The brininess of the oyster came through but the smoke flavor really made this unique.

Oyster with Seaweed

Next came the prawns.  Having read many reviews of Asador Etxebarri online, this was an expected favorite.  Smoky, sweet and salty.  Perfectly cooked.  Expectation met.

Palamos Prawns

The next course was astounding, at least to me.  Apparently I had never eaten a properly cooked squid prior to this one.  The tenderness was impressive.  Once again the flavors were excellent.  I also thought the plating on this one was particularly simple yet eye catching.

Baby Squid with Caramelized Onion and Squid Ink

The eggplant and porcini mushrooms came next to take the meal towards the steak finish line.  Great flavors, but not as memorable as some of the other plates, I’d rank this one closer to the bottom along with the mussels and escabeche.  As previously stated, this is based on a sliding scale where some of the other plates were absolutely amazing.

Porcini with Eggplant

Following the porcini’s was a surprisingly rich dish.  The white tuna was more like a foie gras in consistency and richness.  I assume the cut came from a fatty section of the fish as it reminded me some of tuna belly.

White Tuna with Chard and Cherry Tomato

Next came the beef.  Not much to say, the bone was clean when we were done.  Really really clean.

Galician Beef Chop

Dessert courses started with a smoked ice cream with a bery sauce.  Not sure how they smoked ice cream, but this was the best of the two dessert courses.

Reduced Milk Ice Cream

The second dessert course wasn’t as memorable.  The Basque Cake with figs was good but similar to the mussels, not as strong as most of the other courses.

Basque Cake with Figs

The mignardise – chocolate truffles covered on cacao powder.  A nice rich chocolate capper after the lighter and spongier basque cake.

Mignardise

Price was nosebleed, especially with a couple bottles of wine, but opportunities like this one come along rarely.

Next post:  San Sebastian

Ordesa National Park in the Spanish Pyrenees

For our next stop we rented a car and drove from Barcelona into the Pyrenees Mountains on the Spanish side near the small town of Bielsa.  We stayed in the Parador de Bielsa hotel at the edge of Ordesa National Park (Ordesa y Monte Perdido Parque Nacional) on the Cinca River.  The hotel offers beautiful views of the surrounding mountains, including the waterfalls that cascade down from the peaks.  The hotel restaurant is excellent, a welcome amenity since there aren’t  many other options.   The trout was a standout entrée.

On our first full day we set out from the front door of the hotel and headed Northwest towards Monte Perdido and Lago de Pineta (also named Marbore).   The scenery on the way was beautiful including several large waterfalls and a birds eye view of the valley.  Halfway up cattle grazed on the slopes, apparently herded up and down from the mountainside daily (we could hear the bells as the cattle strolled by the hotel in the morning).  The farmer must be in excellent shape, also beware of stepping in the large cow patties scattered about.  The trail was steep in some parts and our feet were tired by mid afternoon.  Hiking poles would probably have helped.  Rather than push on and potentially return in the dark or just be exhausted, we decided to head back and drink some wine on the hotel balcony.

On day 2 we took a drive across the border into France with basically no destination planned.  After many switchbacks down and back up in elevation we ended up at Lac de Cap-de-Long not far from the town of Aragnouet.  This lake and several others nearby were formed at high elevation by a man made dams.  The water was a deep blue and very clear, trout could be seen swimming throughout the lake.  Hungry, we found a restaurant in Saint Lary-Soulan for some savory crepes.  Without much else to do we returned to the hotel and took another hike this time to the Northeast from the hotel to the Llanos de la Larri.

The hike up to the Llanos (plains) was relatively short and steep but rewarding.  The trail winds upward adjacent to the Rio de la Larri which features several waterfalls that aren’t visible from the hotel.   At the top there is a wide open area of grassy fields where horses and cattle graze freely.  There is a small waterfall at the far end of the valley.

Escaping the cities for a few days to get some exercise and take in some fresh air was perfect after Madrid and Barcelona.  The trails were wide open in September and the hotel only appeared to be about half full.  We encountered only a few other hikers over two days.  Hiking here inspired us to head to Yosemite and book a different trip to Europe revolving around mountain hikes.

Next post:  Lunch at Asador Etxebarri

Cinca River
Olympus OMD EM-5, 7-14mm lens@7mm, f/20, 1/6s, ISO 200

High Mountain Waterfall
Olympus OMD EM-5, HDR, multiple shots

Cinca River Valley
Olympus OMD EM-5, 7-14mm lens@7mm, f/6.3, 1/500s, ISO 200

Morning Light in Ordesa
Olympus OMD EM-5, 14-42mm lens@22mm, f/4.1, 1/640s, ISO 200

Blue Waters of Lac Cap-de-Long
Olympus OMD EM-5, 7-14mm lens@7mm, f/4, 1/2000s, ISO 200

Hidden Falls of the Rio Larri
Olympus OMD EM-5, 14-42mm lens@28mm, f/11, 1/5s, ISO 200

Red Rocks of the Rio de la Larri
Olympus OMD EM-5, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/11, 1/15s, ISO 200

Spanish Wildflowers
Olympus OMD EM-5, 14-42mm lens@27mm, f/6.3, 1/400s, ISO 200

Llanos de la Larri
Olympus OMD EM-5, 14-42mm lens@15mm, f/6.3, 1/640s, ISO 200

 

Barcelona, Spain

Tour of Spain stop 2 – Barcelona.  We took the high speed train (Renfe Ave) from Madrid to Barcelona, only about a three hour trip.  Lodging was found using Tournights which offers apartments for rent.  There is a huge amount of things to see, do and eat here.  Lodging is just about the last thing to be concerned with.

Immediately upon arriving in Barcelona you are immersed in architecture.  The Gothic style Cathedral of Barcelona is astounding in size and detail.  Numerous works of Antoni Gaudi such as Casa Batllo, Casa Amatller and La Pedrera draw the eye with their unique exterior facades.  The over-arching feature (literally, no building is allowed to eclipse it in height) is another Gaudi design, the Sagrada Familia.  This is one impressive church.  Amazingly, after over 130 years of construction it still isn’t finished.  The detail carved into each façade and the sheer size could elicit a religious experience.  I suppose that might be the point.

Also home to Barcelona is one of the most famous markets in the entire world – La Boqueria.  The colors, variety and action could inspire just about every amateur photographer.  Sadly I turned into just another tourist taking pictures of fish and meat, but for some reason you just have to do it.  Fresh seafood can be had in the corner of the market for lunch or dinner at Kiosko Universal.  Highly recommended.

We did two tours while in Barcelona.  A free walking tour and a bike tour to several wineries in the Penedes region.  These two tours were probably the two most enjoyable travel tours I’ve experienced so far.  First the walking tour.  The tour guide (Chris G.) was knowledgeable and engaging – even several years later I still recall many of the highlights of this tour which is rare for me, usually in one ear and out the other.  We also stuck around for a paella demonstration dinner.  Fresh ingredients from La Boqueria, cooked and into the belly.  Paella can’t and won’t be any better than that.

The bike tour was almost a requirement after all of the eating and drinking.  At least some exercise was needed to continue to eat and drink.  We chose a tour of Penedes run by Spanish Trails.  Albert was the friendliest and most excited tour guide of all time.  Biking was easy but fun through some beautiful country.  The wineries specialized in Rioja, Tempranillo and an even more unique dry sparkling wine called Cava.  We purchased several bottles which the tour loads up in a van for you so you don’t have to carry it while biking.  The highlight of this tour and perhaps our entire trip to Spain was the meal following the tour, hosted by Albert and his family.  Traditional simple Catalan dishes were served family style and more wine was served, including a dessert wine from the porron.  Each took a turn trying to pour wine like a fountain held high at arms length straight to the face.  Later in the trip we went to two of the top restaurants in the world, both amazing and unforgettable in their own right, but this was also a meal to be remembered.

Next post: Spanish Pyrenees – Ordesa

The “Trees” of the Sagrada Familia
Olympus OMD EM-5, 7-14mm lens@7mm, f/4.0, 1/13s, ISO 200

Paella!
Olympus OMD EM-5, 7-14mmlens@7mm, f/4.0, 1/2000s, ISO 200

St. Eulalia Cathedral
Olympus OMD EM-5, 7-14mm lens@7m, f/4.0, 0.5s, ISO 250

Late Night Stroll
Olympus OMD EM-5, 7-14mm lens@7mm, f/4.0, 0.8s, ISO 200

Gaudi’s Amatller and Batllo
Olympus OMD EM-5, 14-42mm lens@27mm, f/6.3, 1/250s, ISO 200

La Boqueria Seafood
Olympus OMD EM-5, 7-14mmlens@14mm, f/7.1, 1/30s, ISO 200

Penedes Grapes
Olympus OMD EM-5, 14-42mm lens@28mm, f/6.3, 1/200s, ISO 320

Paella!
Olympus OMD EM-5, 14-42mm lens@42mm, f/5.6, 1/200s, ISO 200

Madrid, Spain

Madrid was the first stop on our trip to Spain.  Centrally located with reasonable airfare landed it atop the batting order.  From Madrid to Barcelona, Barcelona to Ordesa National Park in the Pyrenees and finally on to the food capital of the world, San Sebastian (return flight from nearby Bilbao).

My wife and I traveled here with some close friends after their wedding.  The trip was quickly coined Luna de Miele (loosely honeymoon?).  We stayed at an excellent bed and breakfast called Abracadabra B&B just a block or so away from the Palacio Real and Plaza Mayor.  Breakfast was great and the rooms were quiet and well kept.  Highly recommended.

We hit some of the key tourist spots such as the Palacio, Plaza Mayor, Prado Museum and the Reina Sofia Museum.  Intersting stuff but I wasn’t blown away by any of these sights.  Picasso’s Guernica in the Reina Sofia was memorable.  The claustrophobic outdoor El Rastro street market and the Mercado San Miguel were the must sees.  My first taste of Jamon Iberico as well as other small bites at the Mercado will be planted in my memory for years to come (I admittedly appreciate food more than paintings and sculpture).  The sheer size and volume of people at El Rastro was unforgettable.  The streets were flooded with shoppers, entertainers and storekeepers.  Just about anything could be found on sale.  I recall a specific tent specializing in VHS tapes and another with casettes.

Jamon aside, Madrid was my first shot at quite a few traditional Spanish dishes/styles.  Papas Bravas, Paella, and Tapas to note a few.  Our most memorable moments came from bar hopping and savoring a variety of small dishes along the way.  Rioja wine also made quite a few appearances.

Madrid is a great starting point to get over some jet lag and start to experience Spain.  Variety of experience but relaxed.  Major sites all within walking distance of Plaza Mayor.  Fewer tourists than Barcelona.  Some sightseeing and bar hopping here should satisfy just about anyone.

Next post: Barcelona

Plaza Mayor
Olympus OMD EM-5, 7-14mm lens@7mm, f/4.0, 1/2000, ISO:200

Museo Reina Sofia
Olympus OMD EM-5, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/4.0, 1/100, ISO:200

Metropolis
Olympus OMD EM-5, 20mm lens, f/4.0, 1/25, ISO:400

El Rastro
Olympus OMD EM-5, 14-42mm lens@42mm, f/5.6, 1/125, ISO:200

Bear and the Madrono Tree
Olympus OMD EM-5, 20mm lens, f/4.0, 1/13, ISO:500

Royal Arches
Olympus OMD EM-5, 14-42mm lens@31mm, f/5.6, 1/160

Food and Drink in Italy

Basically every meal we had in Italy was fantastic.  Tripadvisor and other review sites really make it quite simple to find quality.  Given that, there were of course some standouts.  Here are the top dining experiences we had across Rome, Naples, Florence, Venice and the Cinque Terre.  Admittedly not my best photography, but it is hard to care about taking photos when presented with food like this.

1.  Osteria Vini e Vecchi Sapori – Florence

No Pizza, no Bistecca, no ice.  This sign is posted right out front, this is not a pizza joint, not a Florentine steak house, and they do not have soft drinks.  There are about five tables and the place is run by a small family.  Reservations are required or you basically have no hope.  The location is also very convenient as it is right next to the Medici palace.  Simple, very reasonably priced and fantastic.

Osso Bucco

Zucchine Blossom Pasta

Cinghiale (Wild Boar) Pappardelle

2.  Antica Ristorro di Cambi – Florence

Bistecca Florentine.  This steak alone pushed me from normally ordering steaks prepared Medium to now exclusively ordering Medium Rare.  This was conveniently located for us, there may be better Bistecca to be found, but cheap wine and a delicious steak is still a great experience.  House wine comes by the jug.

Bistecca Florentine

3. Pizzeria da Michele – Naples

Made famous in the novel and movie Eat, Pray, Love (at least according to my wife) this place is on the map.  Deservedly so.  Gigantic pizza but so good you can easily eat a whole one yourself.  Sauce, Mozzarella and a little basil is all any real pizza needs.

Real Pizza

4. Il Gabriello – Rome

Pasta cooked to perfection.  More al dente than I’d ever had before.  I don’t think I’ve had pasta prepared this well since.

Spaghetti Pomodoro

Cozze (Mussels)

5. Ristorante Da Gigino – Sorrento

Wasn’t sure what to expect here, suspected it might be a bit of a tourist trap however the quality of the food was excellent.  Stopped here for lunch while strolling the streets of Sorrento.  The pasta was prepared perfectly and the seafood was fresh.  More simply prepared dishes executed perfectly.

Caprese Salad

Gamberi (prawns) e Vongole (clams)

Cozze (Mussels) e Vongole (Clams)

6. Vulnetia – Vernazza

The Cinque Terre region is famous for Pesto and seafood, specifically anchovies.  While the two dishes pictured below can be found just about at any restaurant in the area, Vulnetia does them well.

Gnocchi with Pesto

Acciughe (anchovy) and Patata

Next post:  Madrid

Vernazza and the Cinque Terre

The Cinque Terre was the final stop on our tour of Italy in 2011.  We had figured the urban experiences of Rome, Naples, Venice, and Florence would be best followed by a more serene locale.  We could not have been better rewarded.

The Cinque Terre region is made up of five towns; Monterosso, Vernazza, Riomaggiore, Manarola and Corniglia.  Each town has its differences but they share colorful building facades and beautiful views of the Ligurian Sea.    Monterosso is the largest and feels like a resort, having a relatively large beach and a multitude of shops and restaurants.  Corniglia is the smallest and is less accessible than the other towns.  It has a sleepy feel and is less popular with tourists.  It is also the only town of the five that isn’t directly on the water.  Riomaggiore and Manarola are similar with a main street leading down to a small harbor inlet.  We chose to stay in Vernazza after reading Rick Steve’s recommendations and booked a room at Camere Giuliano.  Vernazza is laid out similarly but is smaller, or at least it felt smaller and more welcoming.

Pages have been written on Camere Giuliano and the man (Giuliano Basso) who built, owns and runs the rooms in Vernazza that we booked.  Check out the link and read some of the Tripadvisor reviews.  I don’t recall having met another stranger who immediately commanded my respect in the way the Giuliano Basso did.  My wife and I spent several hours chatting with him on the patio during our stay and our time could not have been better spent.  Book well in advance.

Vernazza has approximately 500 permanent residents.  Giuliano noted that additional development is prohibited by the government to preserve the town.  The main street runs from the train station down to the beach which is flanked by the old castle and the church.  The tower of the castle offers a nice view of the sea and town harbor however the town is best viewed from the end of the dock or the hiking trail to Monterosso.  Small shops and restaurants line the street.  The beach is small and was frequented by the local children.  Not the type of beach to lay out in the sun for an entire day on.

Hiking trails connect all five towns of the Cinque Terre.  The trails leading out of Vernazza (Monterosso to the west and Corniglia to the east) are probably the two longest and most difficult, though neither are particularly excruciating.  Take enough water, there are no spots to refill.  The trails between all five towns run along the sea and offer spectacular views of its deep blue/green waters.  The towns are also connected by train which is convenient if you don’t want to hike to and from on the same trail.  We made it to all five towns on two separate days of hiking and still had plenty of time to relax and dine on the local specialties (Pesto, Focaccia, Anchovies… more in the next post).  Check on the status of the trails before departing, Corniglia to Manarola was closed during our visit.  Hiking the trails during mid day while tourists pack the towns seemed to be the perfect way to experience this area.    The first two shots below show Vernazza at different times of day, note the crowds in the shot taken in mid-afternoon.  The mornings and evenings were peaceful with far fewer people roaming about the town.

Shortly after we had left, in the fall of 2011, extremely heavy rains caused severe flooding and landslides, causing significant damage to Vernazza and Monterosso.  The Save Vernazza website has a wealth of information on the destruction and also the efforts that have taken place or are underway to restore or even improve upon this beautiful town.  Rick Steve’s also has some good information on the recovery.  It appears that the trails and businesses are back open and the towns have recovered well.

Perfect end to our trip.

Next post:  Tour of Italy Cuisine Recap

Morning in Vernazza from the Trail to Monterosso
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@14mm, f/5.6, 1/320, ISO:200

Afternoon, Vernazza from the Trail to Monterosso
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/5.6, 1/800, ISO:200

Corniglia
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/4.0, 1/800, ISO:200

Trail to Monterosso above the Ligurian Sea
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@24mm, f/5.6, 1/1000, ISO:200

Monterosso al Mare
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@42mm, f/5.6, 1/800, ISO:200

Hiking to Manarola
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@20mm, f/5.0, 1/800, ISO:200

View from Camere Giuliano
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@20mm, f/9.0, 1/320, ISO:200

The Villa dell’Amore
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@18mm, f/5.0, 1/800, ISO:200

Naples and Sorrento, Italy

Naples isn’t quite like the other tourist spots of Italy.  Naples is gritty.  You won’t see the hundreds of security officers wandering around with nothing to do like you might in Rome (we saw only one, donning a bulletproof vest).  Unemployment in Naples is extremely high, and it shows.  They also say that the mafia controls the trash collection (or lack there of) and it shows.  What shows the most is that Neapolitan youth love spray paint.  Graffiti is visible on basically everything.  I never really felt unsafe here though.  I’d venture to guess that the odds of being pick-pocketed in Naples are about the same as any other city in Italy.  Fewer tourists and empty piazzas were actually refreshing.  The huge Piazza del Plebiscito was practically empty as we strolled through.  We also found excellent lodging in Naples at L’alloggio dei Vassalli.

While Naples wasn’t my favorite destination in Italy, it isn’t as dire as I may have made it seem.  One, including myself, could make a convincing argument that the pizza alone will make the trip a worthwhile one.  We stopped at Pizzeria da Michele twice, which is famed in its own right but also from the book “Eat, Pray, Love.”  A picture of Julia Roberts is proudly displayed within.  Da Attilio also provided a solid pie.  In general, the coffee and pastries were also top notch.  The Museo Archeologico contains some amazing works excavated from the ruins of Pompeii (though the museum itself is drab).

Naples makes a great home base for some other destinations as well.  The beautiful town of Sorrento is just a short train ride away to the south.  Pompeii and Vesuvius are also just a short train ride to the north.  Unfortunately we just didn’t have enough time to get to Pompeii and Vesuvius but we did make it to Sorrento for a day.

There is a stark contrast between Naples and Sorrento which is quite clean and quaint.  The town is famous for its softball sized lemons.  The trinkets in the shops are lemon themed, the candy is lemon flavored, and of course there is limoncello for purchase.  Most shops even let you taste before you buy.  One end of town has a lemon grove that you can stroll through, though the mosquitoes were a nuisance.  Great for a day trip but wasn’t a place I’d stay for more than that, unless I were exploring other towns down the Amalfi coast.

Naples itself may not be for everyone but it’s worth a visit.  To non-foodies it may sound odd, but I don’t think I’ll ever forget the taste of the pizza in Naples.  I suppose those types of lasting memories are what travel is all about.  You might even fall in love with the more authentic feel of this city versus the long lines and tour buses of other Italian cities.  Anyway, if you can’t stand the place head to Sorrento and Pompeii.  There’s nothing to lose.

Next post: The Cinque Terre

Vesuvius in the Distance
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@7mm, f/4.0, 1/2000s, ISO:500

Umberto Galleria
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@7mm, f/4.0, 1/80s, ISO:500

Lemons of Sorrento
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@12mm, f/5.0, Multi, ISO:320

Back Alleys
Olympus EPL-1, 20mm lens, f/3.5, 1/100s, ISO:200

Missing the Garbage Man
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@14mm, f/4.0, 1/500s, ISO:200

Margherita Pizza at Da Michele
Olympus EPL-1, 20mm lens, f/2.2, 1/80s, ISO:200

Sorrento Harbor
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@7mm, f/5.0, 1/1250s, ISO:200

Neapolitan Graffiti
Olympus EPL-1, 20mm lens@20mm, f/7.1, 1/2000, ISO:640

Venice, Italy

Venice is surreal.  The notion of purely water based transportation in itself is an oddity.  Like the other big cities in Italy, it has tourist meccas, the Rialto Bridge and Piazza San Marco specifically.  The areas near these two spots seemed even more packed with tourists and low quality/over priced food than Rome.  Learned the hard way that an espresso in Piazza San Marco costs about $14 USD.  Conversely, strolling the streets and canal bridges in the evening is an experience that can’t be replicated.  Just watch out for the dog poop.  No matter where you are some amount of the people will not pick up their dog’s doo doo.  This fact is amplified when streets are narrow and there’s no grass or trees.   Also of great importance, the canals did not stink.  I can’t speak for whether they ever do stink or how badly they smell if and when they do, but I don’t recall a single foul odor.  My wife and I visited in late May.  Maybe it was luck or maybe people tend to exaggerate.  In fact, the lack of exhaust from cars and scooters was quite pleasant.

I was dragging through Venice, half out of it from an illness I’d been fighting off the whole trip.  Luckily our bed & breakfast had the most comfortable bed I’ve slept in (Italy or otherwise).  Actually, B&B Sandra was perhaps the best B&B I’ve ever stayed in.  The owners, Sandra & Leonardo, make you feel at home and prepare an extensive breakfast daily.  The B&B is within reasonable walking distance of almost anywhere, but of course you can take the water buses instead.  No gondola or water taxi rides for us, not sure it would be worth the euros when a good seat on the water bus gets you all of the same sights.

The food was much better in Florence and Tuscany in my opinion, but I’d imagine we just didn’t seek out the right places.  One tip is that the food seemed to improve proportionally to the distance from the Rialto and San Marco.  Lunch at Osteria L’Orto dei Mori was memorable.  The cicchetti (similar to Spanish tapas) bar tour is also an excellent way to go for a dinner.  Hopping from bar to bar sampling the specialty of each with a glass of wine made for a great evening.  Perhaps one of the best things we ate in Venice were strawberries from the local street vendors.  Maybe Venice has the best strawberries in the world in May, maybe I normally eat crappy strawberries.  I don’t know but they were the best I’ve ever eaten.

The short trip across the lagoon to the island of Murano is worth it for a few hours to see the famed Venetian glass work.  Unfortunately I don’t have any photos to post as most of the shops prohibit taking pictures of their work.  The glass is gorgeous but also on the pricey end.  Expect at least 150 euros for a decanter or vase with real quality to it.  Some of the shops conduct live glass blowing demonstrations.  Watched a guy make a very detailed horse out of glass in about two minutes.  Impressive.

The first shot below is an HDR that is admittedly a little unrealistic looking, however I thought that it fit with the surreal feeling of Venice in general.  I tended to rely on the 14-42mm Olympus kit lens as the close quarters and tight streets are more conducive to a mid range lens.  Though it’s crowded, watching the gondolas go by below the Rialto in the evening is a do before you die type of experience.

Next post: Naples

Dreams of Venice
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/3.5, Multi, ISO:200

Venetian Driveway
Olympus EPL-1, 20mm lens, f/4.0, 1/400s, ISO:200

Water Taxi
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@42mm, f/5.6, 1/1600s, ISO:200

Gondola for Hire
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@18mm, f/3.9, 1/10s, ISO:200

The Campanile
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@18mm, f/395, 1/1000s, ISO:200

Venetian Streets
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/4.5, 1/1600s, ISO:200

Parking Spots
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@13mm, f/5.6, 1/640s, ISO:200

Wine Tour of Tuscany’s Chianti Region

I’ve been blogging about cities and taking lots of shots of landscapes and architecture in Italy, but really my wife and I traveled here for food and wine.  We had our most enjoyable or second most enjoyable day in Italy (Hard to judge, the Cinque Terre was also amazing) after one full day centered on drinking and eating.  When you tour fantastic wineries and end up eating lunch at a world famous butcher shop, I guess that’s what you’d expect.  A perfect dinner awaited back in Florence as noted in my last post.

My wife and I booked a tour with Tuscan Wine Tours, hoping to try some full bodied dry red wines and wanting to see the famed Tuscan countryside.  We booked well in advance as this outfit is well reviewed in Tripadvisor and spots/available dates were filling up.  We were not disappointed.  If you have a day in Florence and like wine and meat, this tour is what you should do.  You can see the architecture of Florence in pictures on the internet but you can’t taste the wine.

After a 20-30 minute drive we arrived at the first winery.  The scenery was nice and your tour guide will prep you on Italian wine types and classifications.  Our guide spoke perfect English as did the hosts at the wineries.  Tuscan wines are centered around Chianti Classico but offer quite a few other varieties of primarily red full bodied wines.  The wineries also made their own olive oil which could change your whole mentality on the stuff if you’ve never had great olio.  We haven’t bought the supermarket brand ever since.  If you do some research though there are some affordable brands to be purchased just about anywhere.

Lunch was at a butcher shop in the small town of Panzano.  The shop is easy to spot due to the unconventional horizontal red and white stripes and painted blue and flowered cow out front.  Meat was on the menu and it was fantastic.  We were surprised long after we returned home to see a place that looked familiar to us on Anthony Bourdain’s “No Reservations” during an episode he shot in Tuscany.  After comparing some pictures to the video we realized the amazing lunch we had on this tour was at the shop of famed butcher Dario Cecchini.

After lunch, another winery with excellent Chianti and olive oil.  We stopped in the town of Greve for gelato on the trip back to Florence where we were dropped off at the scenic Piazzale Michelangelo.  From here you can get a view of the entire city skyline.  The stress of sightseeing in the crowded cities can be well relieved by a tour into the country side, especially with some wine involved. – Mike Valore

Road to Villa Cafaggio
Olympus EPL-1, 7-14mm lens@7mm, f/5.6, 1/1250s, ISO:200

Chianti Classico
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/4.0, 1/100s, ISO:320

Lunch at Antica Macelleria Cecchini
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/3.5, 1/140s, ISO:320

Lots of Wine
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/4.5, 1/80s, ISO:320

Home-made Olive Oil and Pasta
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/3.5, 1/150s, ISO:320

Greve Town Square
Olympus EPL-1, 14-42mm lens@14mm, f/5.6, 1/1250s, ISO:320

Next post: Venice